![]() ![]() The next layer should overlap the first layer of tape by at least 1/2" and cover/be stuck to the flange. Seal a first pass of tape on all four sides so that about 1 1/4" of tape is stuck down to the roof with the balance stuck to the flange. Just overlap the tape on the corners.įor 2" tape. It makes it easier to access if the vent lid is removed before the repairs.įor 3" tape just apply on all four sides making certain to keep it as smooth as possible. To repair first clean the roof area along the flange and the flange it self. For the vent flange repair 3" is worth considering. I keep the 2" wide tape on hand because I find it easier to work with than the wider tape. I don’t like the idea of introducing more water into the inside of the van though… Testing would probably be a good idea, but I’ll have to rustle up a helper first. I can make a wood frame around the fan and if I just used regular ss screws, they could screw into the new wood framing. I also don’t like that the fan was installed without wood framing on the underside. GeorgeRa: Yes, I agree! I don’t like the looks of those rusty screws and I’d already planned to go to the fishing store (or Hardware Sales) to buy new stainless steel screws.) But it sounds like you think stainless steel bolts with nylock nuts would be better?) I’m not sure how to clean up the rust at the holes in the van roof, but I’d like to put some rust inhibitor on the holes. ![]() Hamm: I noticed a lot of bubbling on the interior caulking around my fan too, so it does appear there was some failure of the caulking. My only fear is that there may be moisture that ran down the wall behind the sink/cabinet, and the only way to dry that out will be to remove the cabinet and pull off the wall paneling. That’s going to have to do until tomorrow. I had a couple of DryZAir contraptions so I put them both in the van. I found a little electric heater with a fan, so I plugged that in (should help dry the air better than the Espar). I looked inside the van tonight and the ceiling was all dry but the air felt humid. I don’t have a dehumidifier, but I suppose someone rents them. Last night I turned the diesel heater on to warm things up and help dry them out. I’m very well aware of mold living in WA State. ![]() I guess I should call the LineX people and see how they work around fans and roof rails.ĬJPJ: Yeah I know. I think it’s just too wet up here in WA for vans that have to live outdoors. I should have done it a long time ago, but I think I should have LineX sprayed on the roof like Jon in Seattle did. I’d hate it if I had to buy a whole new fan because the one I have wasn’t cheap (auto open/close, reversible fan, rain sensor). Vic: Tape sure sounds like an easy fix, and I don’t doubt that I might damage the vent flange. If so, I’ll peel back the tarp, take some pictures, and take a closer look at it. So far the weatherman is saying it should be dry most of tomorrow. was secure a tarp over the roof, and I couldn’t get to it today either. Midwestdrifter: There are no photos of the top side because I discovered the leak late on Tues night when it was raining. Thank you everyone for all of your recommendations, I really appreciate your help! Here are my responses: ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |